I was shocked to discover just recently that, according to Google Trends data gathered by AllAboutGardening.com, the most popular fall-planted crop in the United States is … garlic.My guess would have been kale. Perhaps beets. Perhaps Brussels sprouts. However garlic?Inspired, I conducted my own deep dive into Google’s search trends, comparing Americans’ interest in growing garlic with interest in growing other fall-planted bulbs, like tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and crocus. Certainly, vibrant blossoms would defeat the spicy, pungent vegetable. Get more from the Citrus County Chronicle No.
When people used the search term” how to grow …
,” garlic was again the frontrunner when compared to those spring bulb plants. I was so gobsmacked that for the first time in my life, I used the word” gobsmacked.” Could it be that Americans have a previously undisclosed fascination with garlic? Or are we collectively perplexed about how to grow it? I love garlic as much as the next lady, but I suspect it’s the latter, which would explain all the “how to” queries.Growing garlic, nevertheless, is every bit as easy as growing daffodils.
There are just a few things to know before you plant it: There are two types of garlic– hardnecks and softnecks. Plant the type finest matched for your climate.Hardneck ranges are advised for northern areas, where they ought to be planted 6-8 weeks prior to a hard frost.
Their heads are comprised of a single row of large cloves formed around an underground stem. They are more flavorful than softnecks but do not store as long.Softneck varieties are better fit for growing in warmer environments, and their heads consist of a number of stacked rows of smaller sized cloves. Due to their longer life span, softnecks are typically offered in supermarkets.Garlic plants are heavy feeders, so include a generous amount of garden compost into the leading 3-4 inches of soil to increase its fertility.
Include an assisting of mycorrhizae fungi to boost bulb formation.Plant only seed garlic purchased from a trusted provider– or cloves from the biggest, healthiest heads saved from last year’s harvest.Supermarket garlic must not be planted because it is frequently treated with development inhibitors to avoid sprouting at the store and in your refrigerator. It also might not be the type best suited for your growing conditions.Separate the head into specific cloves without removing their papery skins. Plant the cloves, pointy wind up, about 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart in rows spaced 12 inches apart.Cover with soil, tamp it down and water well.In regions where winter temperatures drop listed below 40 degrees, mulch the bed heavily with seed-free
straw. Prevent using hay, which consists of turf or grain seeds and is likely to turn your bed into a weedy mess. Water the straw to settle it into place.It’s typical for plants to grow during fall and early winter, even in northern environments; leave them be.Remove the mulch in spring, after the risk
of frost has passed, and sprinkle a line of pelleted fertilizer or blood meal alongside each row, a couple of inches from stems. Keep the bed free of weeds, which might outcompete your crop for soil nutrients.Hardneck varieties will send up tall, leafless stems called scapes in late spring. Eliminate them to permit the plant to focus its energy on underground bulb development. The slightly garlic-flavored scapes are a seasonal delicacy that can
be contributed to salads, prepared in soups or sautéed with other vegetables.Softneck garlic ranges do not produce scapes.Your garlic will be all set to harvest in mid-to-late summertime when at least half of the plant has actually turned yellow. Rather than pull the bulbs, which would risk harming them,
carefully dig them out and reject the soil, but don’t rinse them.Set hardneck varieties with their stems attached on a drying rack or screen, then place in a well-ventilated, cool, dry area for two weeks. Stems of softneck varieties can be braided and hung to dry. The cured garlic’s papery skin will help extend its rack life.Store bulbs in a cool, dry spot.
Hardnecks will remain fresh for at least 3-6 months; softnecks will last up to 9 months.Jessica Damiano writes routine gardening columns for The Associated Press. Her Gardening Calendar was called a winner in the 2021 Garden Communicators International Media Awards. Her Weekly Dirt Newsletter won 2 Society of Professional Journalists PCLI 2021 Media Awards. Register here for weekly gardening tips and recommendations.